Friday, July 11, 2014

Your hair is so soft!

As promised, the following post will be a small update on the first few days of the Going Glocal program. We've done a lot of sitting in the minibus these last few days hence the possibility for two consecutive & extensive updates! The title of today's blog comes from the cutest little 8 year old running up to me at our farewell braai and without word or warning grabbing a lock of my hair and exclaiming in absolute awe that my hair was 'so soft'. I later tried to smuggle him home with me but I eventually had to settle for a picture much too both of our disappointments. Okay, enough weird, on to the updates!

TUESDAY 8TH - DAY 1

Today we met the four Young Achievers who were to act as tour guides for the two days we spent in Windhoek. James (Stix), Newman, Johanna & Sarah are four young adults (20-22) from Katutura, the large township in the heart of Windhoek who work for the non profit organisation of Young Achievers (I'll add a link when I have better internet!). Between them they attend both the Polytechnic University of Namibia and the University of Namibia studying a variety of degrees from physics to tourism. They showed us around Windhoek starting with the cemeteries, great history and a thought provoking conversation with regards to the importance of roots. Newman explained to me how he is to be buried in the north as that's where his roots lay where as I explained I want to be cremated and the location of my ashes is of little importance to me but instead of looking back (parents/roots) if anything I'd look forward (children/future). He didn't understand and I also learnt that cremation is a crazy white person concept. Noted.

We headed to a museum, both universities and finally the Youth Council where we met the vice president of Namibia and various inspiring young people. In the evening we went for drinks within Katutura with the Young Achievers and their friends. Although I initially felt a little uncomfortable as the place was small and felt very personal my feelings were quickly dissolved as the beer flowed freely and we were welcomed with open arms.

WEDNESDAY 9TH - DAY TWO

An early start for us lot and an African start for the young Achievers who turned up one man short half an hour later than agreed. Despite having spent most of my life in Spain, where we also work on African time, I'm really starting to appreciate the Dutch punctuality I've grown accustomed too! We toured both the rich neighbourhood and the informal settlement, a difficult neighbourhood to drive through. The guys explained that they share one or two toilets between the whole village and that running water isn't a luxury they are familiar with. Driving through felt like a zoo tour and I felt extremely uncomfortable throughout. I asked why we hadn't just walked through and maybe had the chance to talk to some of the locals and James bluntly answered 'because you're white'. The white guilt I'd been working so hard to ignore was now fully reactivated. So far I'd only experienced the slightest of hostility and at only one specific moment but this moment has now unfortunately been added to the repertoire.

Next we visited the singles quarters, again with an interesting history. It's now a vibrant market and here I ate worms, dried fish, Herero bread and freshly slaughtered and flame grilled beef all washed down with an interesting traditional millet drink topped with an ant. Interesting doesn't even cut it!

Next stop was the youth center for a crash course in Otji-Herero, a language with absolutely no logical structure and a million words for for its English counterpart. It was a lot of fun but all I've taken from it is how to say 'cute child, I love you' (okanashe kawa, beku suvera) as obviously for those who know me well you'll know this is all I'll need to get by in Opuwo (and to hopefully dodge restraining orders - I'm still working on 'i'll try not to steal you').

We then headed back to the Young Achievers center where we received an in depth explanation of exactly what the Young Achievers stand for and do, a truly inspirational afternoon, please Google to find out more about them! We discussed everything from gender to technology, our heated opinions taking a less formal stance as we transitioned from the center to our farewell braai. Here topics such as homosexuality and sex took center stage, our views on both clearly representing the cultural context in which we were raised. The conversation began with one of the Young Achievers exclaiming that they fully supported Uganda in regards to homosexuality however lesbians are okay. This knocked out two birds with one stone and fired up a great conversation about both traditional gender roles and sexuality. Marike closed the conversation by explaining at the end of the day it's not about your own opinions, that sometimes feelings and opinions are deeply embedded within us due to external factors beyond our control but rather the presence of tolerance and your capability to be respectful, both which lie completely in our own hands. Tolerance is a choice, and choice is a powerful tool which should not be taken for granted.

I'll leave y'all on that thought and there'll be another double day tomorrow.

Peri nawa, Tiger Laylay xo

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